Elderflower, Gooseberries and a Taste of Early Summer
Elderflower has a very particular place in the year. One day the trees are just green hedgerow background, and then suddenly they are covered in creamy white flowers, smelling of summer, cordial, old recipes and possibly a little bit of folklore.
This year the local elder trees are looking well in bloom, though the weather has been too rainy for picking so far. I am waiting for a warm, dry, sunny day before gathering flowers for elderflower champagne and cordial.
The gooseberries on the plot are also doing well so far, which makes the timing even better. Gooseberry and elderflower is one of those classic combinations that makes complete sense: the sharpness of the gooseberries balances the sweet perfume of the elderflowers beautifully.
A tree with a lot of history
The elder tree has long been surrounded by folklore in Britain and across northern Europe. It was often seen as a protective tree, but also one to treat with respect.
There are old traditions about asking permission before cutting elder, and stories of the “Elder Mother” living within the tree. Elder was associated with thresholds, cottages, dairies, charms, fairies, witches and midsummer.
There is also a practical side to this respect. Elder gives generously, but it is not a plant to use carelessly. The flowers and ripe cooked berries are useful, but the leaves, bark, roots, green stems and unripe berries are best avoided.
For cooking and drinks, I use the flowers and remove as much green stem as practical.
Elder in the kitchen
Elderflower can be used in many simple ways:
- Cordial
- Champagne-style fizz
- Fritters
- Vinegar
- Sugar
- Syrup
- Creams and fools
- Cakes and shortbread
- Gooseberry compotes and crumbles
The flavour is delicate, so it is usually best not to overdo it. Fresh, sweet-smelling flowers and a short infusion are better than leaving the flowers steeping for days and days.
Gooseberry and Elderflower Compote
This is probably the most useful recipe to start with. It can be eaten as it is, rippled through cream, spooned over yoghurt, used with porridge, served with pancakes, or turned into a crumble filling.
Ingredients
- 500g gooseberries, topped and tailed
- 80–120g sugar, depending on how sharp the berries are
- 2–4 elderflower heads, or a splash of elderflower cordial
- A small splash of water
Method
Put the gooseberries, sugar and a splash of water into a pan.
Cook gently until the gooseberries soften and begin to collapse.
Add the elderflower heads for the last few minutes only, then remove them. If using cordial instead, stir it in at the end.
Taste and adjust the sugar if needed.
Serve warm or cold.
Gooseberry and Elderflower Fool
Once you have made the compote, a fool is only one step further.
Ingredients
- 300g gooseberry and elderflower compote
- 300ml double cream, or half cream and half Greek yoghurt
- Extra elderflower cordial, optional
Method
Whip the cream softly.
Fold or ripple in the cold gooseberry compote.
Do not overmix. A ripple looks and tastes better than a completely uniform mixture.
Add a little extra elderflower cordial if you want a stronger floral note.
Gooseberry and Elderflower Crumble
This is the comforting version.
Fruit base
- 700g gooseberries
- 100–150g sugar
- 2–3 tablespoons elderflower cordial, or a few elderflower heads briefly infused
Crumble topping
- 150g plain flour
- 75g butter or vegan block
- 75g sugar
- Optional: 40g oats or ground almonds
Method
Put the gooseberries into a baking dish with the sugar and elderflower.
Rub the butter into the flour, then stir in the sugar and oats or ground almonds if using.
Scatter the crumble over the fruit.
Bake until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is golden.
Serve with custard, cream or yoghurt.
Elderflower Cordial
Cordial is useful because it becomes an ingredient for lots of other things.
Ingredients
- 25–30 elderflower heads
- 1.5kg sugar
- 1.5 litres water
- 2 lemons, sliced
- 1 orange, optional
- 50g citric acid, optional but useful for keeping
Method
Dissolve the sugar in boiling water and allow it to cool slightly.
Add the elderflowers, citrus and citric acid if using.
Cover and steep for 24–36 hours.
Strain through muslin and bottle into sterilised bottles.
Keep in the fridge, or freeze in plastic bottles or ice cube trays.
Use with sparkling water, lemonade, summer drinks, cakes, fruit salads and puddings.
Elderflower Fritters
A very old-fashioned treat and one of the quickest ways to use the flowers.
Ingredients
- 8–12 elderflower heads
- 100g plain flour
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- A pinch of salt
- 1 egg
- 150ml sparkling water, beer or milk
- Oil for frying
- Icing sugar or caster sugar to finish
Method
Mix the flour, sugar and salt.
Whisk in the egg and liquid to make a light batter.
Hold each elderflower head by the stalk, dip the flowers into the batter, then fry flower-side down until golden.
Snip off the stalk before eating.
Dust with sugar and serve with lemon, cream, yoghurt or ice cream.
A small seasonal pleasure
Elderflower season is brief, which is part of its charm. The trick is to wait for the right day, pick respectfully, use the flowers while fresh, and not overwork the flavour.
With gooseberries coming on well at the plot, I am hoping for a proper early summer run of elderflower champagne, cordial, compote, fool and crumble.
Not bad from a hedgerow tree and a slightly spiky allotment bush.